Yesterday's waves were awesome. Some offshore storms or such were pumping in some nice swells, and we had a blast taking advantage of them. The waves themselves didn't have much power, some tended to fizzle out. But the shape overall was nice....size was perfect. It provided a perfect condition to put to practice all the guys' advice and suggestions I've been getting since I got here. I even turned LEFT. Yup, that would be a big accomplishment...especially since I never thought I could do it. And brave attempts at it had proved that assumption to be somewhat true. But whatever. I did it anyway...and it was a good turn. ;) Am almost able to walk back and forth on the board. I've gotten the right turn down ok....and can ride the wave down the side (versus just riding it forward toward the beach). I caught one...and turned and found myself surfing the rest of the line of the wave. And then kept going. I'd expected the wave to fizzle out and fall right off my board. But kept going and going til at last the last end of its crest turned over to break. Then it was gone. But that was by far the best wave of the day. Besides the left turn.
Afterwards I headed off with the guys n girls to get lunch in the city. There was no work to be done at the B & B, so I hopped A Wei's bike (tis a real motorcycle- and a very 帥 bike) and sped off. Weather was hot, but beautiful...clear blue sky and sun bright enough to blind one for a week.
After lunch everyone came back and found places in the air-conditioned cafe and slept. The guys had hogged the couch, so I lined a few chairs up and fell almost sound asleep in front of the a/c. We watched a surf movie until 阿泉 and I had to make an airport run. That was pretty much the extent of work for the day. I went to dinner with Yi-Ma and Vicky then headed home to shower and fall asleep way before bed time. Twas a perfect kind of summer day.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
I like your thoughts about the reason of working...I ponder about it every day!!!
ReplyDeleteI am glad you have a lot of friends there~
Ginger
You turned while surfing?! That is awesome. And walking on the board? Wow. I am hugely impressed. You must be an official, seasoned surfergirl now. ;)
ReplyDeleteI've bookmarked your blog, so you're just a click away. I look forward to reading about your thoughts and adventures.